MASTER LIST: Build Instructions

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by RCPowers, Dec 10, 2015.

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  1. MPL-2.png
    tausif and hampilot like this.
  2. Table of Contents
    Disclaimer ................. Specs ......................... Printing ....................... Plans to Foam..................Score-Fold
    Wingplate ................. Carbon Tube ............... Control Surfaces............Motor Mount.....................Install Battery
    Nosecone .................. Fuselage... ....... .... .....Verticals .................. ... Airfoils............................. Sanding
    Hatch..........................CG Pre-Check ............. Install Motor ................ Controls .......................... Wiring
    Painting ..................... Programming ............. Control Throws............. Center of Gravity.............. Trimming

    Disclaimer: These instructions are for all of the RCPowers V5 parkjets. The details of how to assemble some of the parts vary from plane to plane. You are responsible to read, understand, and safely build your scratchbuilt plane. Ignore, change, or modify steps at your own risk. See the PARTS page all the parts you need.
  3. Specs

    Tools Needed .................... Build Materials ........................ Electronics ........................ Controls
    (1) Razor Blade .................... 6mm Foam (2) 27x39" ................ 2200kv Motor: 34-47g ............ Channels: 3-6
    (1) 2mm Flat Head ............... 3mm Carbon Tube (2) 24" ........... 2.4 Radio: 3-6 ch ................... Elevon Deflection: 15 degrees
    (1) Epoxy, Hot Glue .............. PlyMotor Mount .......................... 9g Servos: 2-6 ....................... Aileron Deflection: 15 degrees
    (1) Strapping Tape ............... 2-56 Dubro Rods: 2-6 .................. Prop: 6x4 APC ....................... Rudder Deflection: 15 degrees
    (1) Adhesive Velcro .............. Control Horns: 2-6 ....................... ESC: 40 Amp
    duyngoc likes this.
  4. Printing
    Printing From Home
    - To print from home, download the “Tiled PDF” version from your online account.
    - Click the link to download. Then search your computer’s downloads for the “Tiled PDF” file.
    - It’s best to do a “test print” to insure your computer and printer connection is working properly.
    - The plans will fit on the standard 8.5x11 letter sized and A4 paper.
    - Print at “actual size” or 100%. Use the “scale” on the plans to double check that the size is correct.
    - Use a straightedge and razor blade to cut on the inside of the black borders.
    - Cut only the bottom and right margins of each page.
    - Overlap and line up each page using the adjacent pages’ black borders.
    - Tape them all together with clear Scotch Tape.
    - Using the layout page and page numbers as a guide, tape all pages together to create the life size plans.

    Printing From Print Shop
    - The advantage of printing from a print shop is you skip having to cut and tape pages to get your plans.
    - To print from a print shop, download the “Untiled PDF” version from your online account.
    - Click the link to download. Then search your computer’s downloads for the “Untiled PDF” file.
    - Copy the “Untiled PDF” file to a USB thumb drive and take it to your print shop (FedEx/Kinkos, etc.).
    - Tell the print shop to print the file at “100% on black and white”.
    - Use a ruler and the scale provided on the prints to check for 100% size accuracy.
    - More help with downloading plans here. More help printing plans plans here.
  5. Plans to Foam
    Spray Glue Down Plans
    - Use spray glue to apply a very thin mist of glue evenly on the foam. Test on some scraps first.
    - Lay down the paper plans onto the area with the glue, and use your hands to smooth out any wrinkles.
    - The paper can be pulled off later like a sticker after you finish cutting the foam parts out.
    - Wipe some hand sanitizer onto the paper if you’re having any trouble pulling it up.
    - The rubbing alcohol in the hand sanitizer will soak through the paper and break up the spray glue.

    Cut Out Foam
    - Using a straightedge and razor blade cut out all the parts on the solid lines.
    - Cut out all the “inside” notches for servo and control horn placement.
    - Leave all the dotted lines alone for now, those are for “scoring and folding” later.
    Flybyknight22 and Skydiver like this.
  6. Score-Fold
    Score On Dotted Lines
    - Scoring is when you take your straight edge and razor blade and lightly run it across the surface of the foam.
    - Using just the weight of your hand and blade (applying no downward pressure), just skim across the top.
    - The goal is to cut approximately half way through the 6mm foam (just less than 3mm).
    - After scoring along all the dotted lines, now gently bend the foam along the score lines.
    - If you score too deep this is ok, these parts will be reinforced later with strapping tape.
    - Bend the parts to 45 degrees using the score line as a hinge.

    Reinforce Score Lines With Strapping Tape
    - When all the scoring is complete, next run strapping tape along the inside fold.
    - The strapping tape helps to give the parts lasting strength.
    - Our general rule is to apply about 2 inch pieces of tape with 1 inch gaps in between.
  7. Combine Wing Plate Pieces
    Combine Wing Plate Pieces
    - Double check that the two wing pieces butt together smoothly, trim or sand if needed.
    - Glue them together using epoxy and let it dry for 10 minutes.
    - Put masking tape on the top and underside of the parts and tightly “pull” them together.
    - Apply this masking tape every 6 inches along the length of the glue joint to insure a tight joint.
  8. Carbon Tube
    Cutting Carbon Tube
    - The exact length of the 3mm carbon tube is on your PDF plans.
    - WARNING: Do not breathe the carbon dust when cutting. Treat it as you would fiberglass.
    - Carbon fiber also splinters easily so do not attempt to “snip” it.
    - For best results, use a very fine tooth cutting tool such as a scroll saw or dremel.
    - Wrap masking tape around where you’ll cut (this will help catch dust and keep the carbon from splitting).
    - Then wrap the area you are cutting with a wet paper towel to trap more of the dust.
    - Be sure to cut the carbon tube in a well ventilated area and use a dust mask.

    Score-Pluck For 3mm Carbon Tube
    - Trace out where the carbon tube goes (see your PDF plan for exact location).
    - You want to create a 2mm “canal” for your 3mm tube to fit tightly into.
    - Using the “scoring” technique you used previously, simply score along the lines where the carbon tube goes.
    - Use a 2mm standard screwdriver to “pluck” out the top of the foam. Try not to pluck more than 2mm deep.
    - Run your carbon tube back and forth in the groove to compress the foam to fit.
    - Dry fit the carbon tube before gluing to insure it’s flush with the surface.

    Glueing 3mm Carbon Tube
    - Run masking Tape along both sides of the carbon fiber tube canal to protect the foam from glue spillage.
    - Slather epoxy thoroughly and evenly through the canal.
    - Press the carbon tube firmly into the canal.
    - Cover the tube with masking tape.
    - Place flat weights (such as large books) on top while drying.
    - Wait 20 minutes for optimum drying time and then peel the tape off.
    Dam likes this.
  9. Control Surfaces
    Bevel Control Surfaces
    - The control surfaces (elevons) are attached and hinged to the plane using strapping tape (see step below).
    - The bottom side of the control surface hinge line needs a bevel so the parts can move freely.
    - We recommend practicing the beveling step on a piece of scrap foam first.
    - Using a razor blade and straight edge, cut a 30 degree angled bevel along the jointed edge as pictured.
    - Repeat this process on the opposite edge as pictured.

    Hinge Control Surfaces
    - Apply the strapping tape along the top of the joint as pictured.
    - Our general rule is to apply about 2 inch pieces of tape with 1 inch gaps in between.
    - Make sure to have the threads in the tape running parallel with the hinge (horizontally).
    - Next, carefully apply strapping tape along the bottom of the joint as pictured.
    - Be sure to have the control in the “open” position while applying to insure full movement.
    - If needed, tear off the tape and take another try until your controls look as pictured.
    - The plane will flex some during flight so double check that the elevons can move freely without rubbing.
    - Trip ⅛ inch of foam off from the inside of the elevon if needed to insure everything moves freely.
    Burnham likes this.
  10. Motor Mount
    Motor Mount Support
    - The prop needs to be in about the middle of the prop slot (not too close to either edge).
    - It’s ok to custom cut your prop slot larger or into a different shape if needed.
    - First dry fit your entire motor, prop, and mount assembly to see how it all fits before screwing and gluing.
    - You can use 1, 2 or no motor shims to adjust the fit to the size of motor you have.
    - Epoxy down mount using masking tape and pins to hold it. Make sure the mount dries straight.
    - Now seal with hot glue. You want the motor mount “too strong” not “strong enough”.
    XTHANH, Icsbpowell and hawkhaven like this.
  11. Install Battery Velcro
    Install Battery Velcro
    - The 11.1v Lipo flight batteries are velcroed to the inside compartment of the plane.
    - This allows you to change out the flight batteries quickly at the flying field.
    - Stick the “hook” side of the adhesive velcro to your flight batteries.
    - Stick the “loop” side of the adhesive velcro to the inside of your plane where the parts are marked “VELCRO”.
    - The flight battery is also used to adjust your Center of Gravity as mentioned below.
    ahmedjawad likes this.
  12. Nosecone
    Nosecone Assembly
    - First lay down the parts pictured and insure they sit flat and snug.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - We recommend lightly hot gluing nose to fuselage so the nosecone can “pop off” in a crash and preserve this joint.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.
  13. Fuselage
    Fuselage Support
    - First lay down the parts pictured and insure they sit flat and snug.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.

    Fuselage To Wingplate
    - *NOTE* The Motor Mount Supports need to be in place BEFORE you attach the fuselage to the wingplate.
    - Slide the fuselage into the wingplate and lock in place with the notches.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.

    Fuselage Top
    - First lay down the parts pictured and insure they sit flat and snug.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.
    tommyb likes this.
  14. Verticals
    Install Engines
    - Fold the engines and slide and lock them into the the wing plate.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.

    Vertical Stabilizers
    - Slide the vertical stabilizers into the top of the wing plate and make sure the pars are snug.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.
    maujets likes this.
  15. Airfoils
    Leading Edge Flaps Airfoil
    - Fit the missile rails into the notches and insure the pars are snug.
    - Now spread glue along all the joining edges.
    - Press the parts together firmly and pin and tape as need as the glue dries.

    KF2 Airfoil
    - For added speed, precision, and strength you can use a KF2 airfoil (step on the top of the wing).
    - The KF4 (step on top and bottom) produces more speed and precision.
    - Use Epoxy to attach the KF airfoils to the wings if you choose to use them.
    - Use a KF at your own risk.
  16. Sanding
    Round All Leading Edges
    - Use 180 grit sandpaper to round the leading edges. (150 and 220 grit sandpaper will also work)
    - Surfaces to sand: Wing, prop slot, vertical and horizontal stabilizers.
    - The plane flies fine even if you leave the edges square. Any roundness is extra credit, so don’t sweat it.
    Guppy_Guy likes this.
  17. Hatch
    Hinge Hatch
    - Cut out your access hatch.
    - Do NOT bevel the edges for the hinge.
    - First, put strapping tape on the top part of the hatch hinge.
    - Next, open the hatch all the way to put the strapping tape on the bottom of the hinge as pictured.

    Hatch Magnets
    - Mark where your magnets will go and recess the foam using the scoring technique.
    - First dry fit magnets by taping them in place. Insure your hatch closes correctly.
    - Hot glue in the magnets and cover them with strapping tape as the glue dries.
  18. CG Pre-Check
    CG Pre-Check
    - Before you install your motor and servos, double check you will have proper CG balance.
    - Tape down your motor and servos where you plan to put them.
    - Now put your battery in the plane and balance the plane on the CG marks provide on the PDF plans.
    - Ensure that you can still move your battery at least 1 inch forward and backward and still be in the CG range.
    - If your plane is too nose heavy, plan to mount your servos farther back.
    - If your plane is too tail heavy, plan to move your servos farther forward.
    - Also consider using a larger or smaller size battery.
    - Consider moving the motor forward or backward 6mm.
    - It is your responsibility to make your plane work with your parts (everyone is different).
    - See the Center Of Gravity Troubleshooting post for more help.
  19. Install Motor
    Install Motor
    - See Motor Mount Support to double check that you installed your motor mount properly.
    - Propeller should be centered and overall plane should be checked for CG balance before glueing in.
    - Screw the metal mount to the motor using the screws provided with your motor.
    - Then screw motor with the metal mount attached to your plywood mount using #6 x 1/2 size or similar screws.
  20. Controls
    Control Horns
    - IMPORTANT: The hole of the horn needs to be directly over the hinge line as pictured.
    - The control horn needs to go 90 degrees from hinge line as pictured.
    - Measure and cut a tight slot all the way through the foam for the control horn to glue into.
    - The bottom of the horn should lay flat and flush with the bottom of the foam.
    - Generous amounts of epoxy are going to hold it in the best.

    Control Rods
    - Screw the clevis of each control rod halfway down the threads so you have maximum adjustments at the field.
    - Dry fit the servos and attach the clevis of the control rods to each control horn.
    - With the control surfaces centered cut the control rods to reach just past each servo.
    - Remove the clevis from the control horns and bend the end of the rod with needle nose pliers.
    - The “servo end” of the control rod will make a tight Z-bend as pictured.
    - Many servo arms come a bit tight, so pre-drill the servo arm hole to fit the rod as needed.

    IMPORTANT: These are high performance parkjets so the center of mass and center of gravity is critical. If you are using a larger battery you may have to install your servos 2 inches back from the stock markings. The servos sitting farther back will help the plane balance correctly if needed.

    Install Servos
    - Now you have your control rods 100% done and your servos ready to be installed.
    - To “Zero out your servo”, turn on your radio, center the trim, and ensure the servo is mechanically centered.
    - Install control rod on the servo arm and then attach the servo arm to the servo.
    - Glue the servo into the plane using hot glue.
    - Adjust linkage if needed with the clevis threads so the control surface is straight when the servo is centered.
    - If your controls are going the “wrong way” you can possibly reverse a control inside your radio settings.
    - If your controls are still going the wrong way, unglue the incorrect servos and flip it upside down so it mechanically moves the other way.
    - As mentioned above, triple check that you will be able to properly balance your plane once your servos are in.
    Imi, AYYAPPAN, hotglue and 5 others like this.
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