FT Explorer ... Depron style.

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by TomMonton, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. Yes, thats correct! :)
     
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  2. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    You have had me destroy yet another perfectly good yard stick to make a spar. I'm beginning to see a trend maybe ?

    I chopped off the inside tab(s) and with a utility knife shaved the yard stick down so it would actually fit it into place. It turned out pretty good actually and should hold really tight.

    I appear to be ready to set up my fold.
    [​IMG]
     
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  3. :D :D :D
     
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  4. hehe :p
     
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  5. Finally got some time to spend on Solidworks to design the VTOL mechanism...
    Well, the pictures and video explain it all:

    vtol mechanism FWD.jpg

    vtol mechanism up.jpg

    vtol mechanism Labels.jpg


    I haven't physically 3d printed this yet and tested if its going to work as expected but here's the part assembly and animation of it moving..
    In the video, notice that the side plates go blue when the motor mount is actually touching the side piece BUT... if you look closely, we have 0 degree angle (Forward position) and 90 degree angle (VTOL position) right before the parts go blue (slow down the speed in youtube video setting) so hopefully there will be enough clearance in the physical model...

     
  6. bimoadiprakoso

    bimoadiprakoso Top Gun

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    Awesome skill and design there, malukk

    With 3d printing stuffs getting matured for mainstream, it will change how we get our parts for this hobby.

    Parkflyers International Parkjets

    My Scratchbuilding Journey
     
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  7. Thanks Bimo... When it comes to 3d modeling skills, I certainly am far from what you can do... :D
    Speed wise even slower - slow as molases... ;) this model took me almost a full day! I am good with Sketchup 2d models and not so complicated 3d models... This was my 2nd design (or really a 1st complicated design) attempt with SolidWorks... ;)

    With 3d printing the stuff that people are doing out there is too good - complete 3d printed planes that fly really well...
    One of the 3d printed plans (esp. the P-38) from 3dlabprint.com is on my list of planes to build - we'll see how that goes ;)
     
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  8. bimoadiprakoso

    bimoadiprakoso Top Gun

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    Hey, I think you're exaggerating your opinion about me malukk there are exceptional 3d engineers and artists out there and my skill is not even one tenth of them.

    Having 3d printed planes came cross my mind. But on 2nd thought, I skipped it as I won't have the chance to have good exercise for my hands in creating stuffs. Mounts, clevis, horns, .... may be. But not creating planes for me Need to feel and think the energetic ways, eventhough I know that I'm getting old now lol

    Parkflyers International Parkjets

    My Scratchbuilding Journey
     
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  9. Slick , very slick
     
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  10. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    ....and I've got a new box with a little more room. 1/2" wider and a shorter more symetrical nose section.

    Then a much improved tail boom and stabilizer.

    There is still enough room between everything to run two 8 inch propellers on the front.

    14b5035e-03d3-4577-8bb6-654c731915d3.jpg [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
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  11. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    There is an unusual thing that always seems to happen when trying to transform an FT product over to MPF or depron. One being the gauge of paper back foam at 5'ish mm and then Depron being 6mm but I've forever had issues with making the frame balance well for some odd reason.

    Malukk and I both took notes over last season, "try this ... did you do that". Yes .. no and bite me's back and forth before it started to feel more like I thought it should. We did however make some big change up's along the way.

    1. Stretch the tail. COG was forever too nose heavy.
    2. Lift the tail vertical stabilizer higher into the wind.
    3. Widen the fuse. There was little to no room to work in there.
    4. Better utilize the open area in the nose. So I made a rounded airliner looking nose.
    5. Still maintain to this same concept so we can continue to retrofit various wings types to the same universal carriage (important in going forward).

    So I built a new box exactly 1/2" wider but still be able to offer enough clearance to run dual motors in the future. Currently I would recommend a 9" for a rear engine only and two 8" if you want to run twin motors. The final goal yet to be reached would be a tricopter type setup, three 7" props and the tilt mechanism that Malukk is building for that .. right now.
    NoseStuff.jpg
     
  12. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    Next big issue was the tail boom. Two issues really,
    1. She wants to porpoise and the boom is simply too short.
    2. I had way underestimated my first build and it had far more flex and twist than what I was happy with.

    You can see where I was tac'ing ply and doing things to tighten that area up. It helped and told me what I needed to know for this next build. Just a little bit of an eye sore was all.

    The new tail is a slight wider of course .. that would be because I made the fuse wider but it comes as a bonus.

    I lengthened to 30" and there is still enough wiggle room that I can pull another 2 inches back if I feel need more length in the tail. Floppy huh ... I think I fixed that too. I've run a 6mm cf tube down the length and ribbed that inside. On the leading edge of the boom I laminated ply to the inside for support and overlapped the cf tubes glue line.

    Stick down some servo's, control horns and some wire .. tah-dah. The better boom is born ?

    TheTail.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
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  13. Very slick. :)
     
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  14. Nice work Tom! The tail reinforcements I think is a huge help in reinforcements and will take care of the twisting issues at high speed... I think this will really be dialed in now...

    I have some printing updates too...

    These are the 3 frame spacers:
    [​IMG]

    Two side plates printed and 1 was damaged (right plate in pic) when I was pulling it out (I don't use heated bed)...
    The parts click in really nicely with just 1-2 swipes of sanding the slots.. the servo fits in really nice in there! I am using the tower pro 14MG digital servo here - very powerful for its size...
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    The motor mount is being printed currently...
    Will assemble the mechanism by tonite and will try to post a video if it works out!
     
  15. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    Yes !! ... too hot for words.

    Now after doing all this to your initial frame ... I also have to prove that it works that much better so you can draw it all in.
     
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  16. Lol..
    Redrawing that hopefully shouldnt take me that long...

    Forgot to add that the bearings and the 4mm rod fits like a glove!

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  17. and........ it works!!




    Couple of things I would like to note here:

    dimensions are accurate in the CAD model so no need to mod/redesign any of it! spacer plates with just a little sanding snaps in great - fit is so tight that I dont think even glue is required... but I'll act responsibly and put some CA... For this batch, I only used 15% infil on all the parts...

    Used 4 perimeters for motor mount and only 2 for rest of them... With that, I am just below 50g for this setup without the motor:

    IMG_8410.JPG

    I also may have to reconsider the orientation that I am printing these in... I am thinking of printing the side plates standing upright! Back to more print testings...

    Very happy with the results so far. Anybody know of a better solution to glue metal and plastic other than using CA - need to glue the bearing in place as well as the rod... Worst case scenario, I may end up making grooves on the rod and use end clips as we see those in the bottom of our brushless motors!
     
  18. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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  19. notamedclosed

    notamedclosed Ace Pilot

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    Hey Malukk looks nice. Tom's does too, but I really want to get a VTOL going so I'm glad Malukk is doing all the hard work getting it figured out ;).

    I thought you have a MPCNC. Would that not work better (lighter) to cut this out of ply then 3d print it? Part of the reason I'm asking is a I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a MPCNC build.
     
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  20. Thanks! :D yeah, this has been a fun project (long but fun) for me and Tom... I am eventually going to make a ply cut version just coz I think it will be stronger - not sure about the light weight may be if I use balsa wood for side plates if not spaces at least...

    This is still in testing phase to till I get this system standardized... 3d printing is slower but cheaper than cutting wood so all these testings until I finalize this design will be 3d printed... :) I have assembled all the parts together and have to change the size of ball links (using 4-40 ball links) already... the size is a little too big... So I have to modify that and I'll also have to modify the front most spacer plate since the wires are binding in there; unless I chop off the bullet connectors and extend the wires... Think redoing the spacer would be good since I plan on testing a bunch of motors for this too...

    So yeah, eventually wood parts cut out on CNC... :D
    Will keep you guys posted!
     
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