FRCFoamies A10 Warthog MK2 PLANS AVAILABLE!!

Discussion in 'FRCFoamies Plans' started by F1wanabe, Nov 4, 2014.

  1. BarryM

    BarryM Ace Pilot

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    Thank's Newt..really like the A10..if I don't win with this one I'll probably build another but really light..
     
  2. JoeBee

    JoeBee Rookie

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    This looks like a really nice one. I will order it soon!
     
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  3. thunderfisst

    thunderfisst Cadet

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    Glad to see you get it flying. Still a foot of snow and has not gotten above freezing for 3 weeks, I am sure ready for spring.
     
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  4. flyhighhobbies

    flyhighhobbies Administrator

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    I started building planes in December and flying late December, Luckily i'm in the south however we have crappy days as well and being new to the hobby I would like to be out every evening. Thanks ASD for getting me addicted!
     
  5. Asif

    Asif Cadet

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    Finished build and put in electronics auw is 700 grams. Any flight tips? Electronics are 2200kv motor, 6x4 sport propeller, 2200mah battery. One question, will using a sport prop instead of an apc prop make a difference? Here are some pics. Very rough craftsmanship and simple paint job. This is my first frc foamies build
     
  6. Asif

    Asif Cadet

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    i
    Forgot pics. WIN_20150225_204211.JPG WIN_20150225_204216.JPG WIN_20150225_204227.JPG WIN_20150225_204240.JPG WIN_20150225_204308.JPG
     
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  7. F1wanabe

    F1wanabe Administrator

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    Looks really good to me! Very nice! Cg is important so I would say make sure cg is correct and it should fly well for you. That's a good weight!
     
  8. Asif

    Asif Cadet

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    Thanks alot f1. Would the prop make a difference because it it a sport style prop?
     
  9. F1wanabe

    F1wanabe Administrator

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    I haven't tried sport props, so I couldn't tell you. I bet WMY would know!
     
  10. Newt

    Newt Administrator

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    Looks good Asif. Just wondering about you elevator servo mount and control. Maybe I am not seeing it.

    The reason I ask is that I have been thinking about using an internal elevator servo or servos and separate control wires back to each elevator.
    I've been searching this thread looking at every picture to see if it has been done.
    Guess I'll have to start reading.
     
  11. thunderfisst

    thunderfisst Cadet

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    I did internal elevator servo on mine and like the way it turned out but still no chance to fly here with the weather. You should try it.
     
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  12. Asif

    Asif Cadet

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    My
    I have done an internal elevator mount. I left the bottom skin off until all my electronics were installed. I mounted it near the tail and the put the skin over it.
     
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  13. Asif

    Asif Cadet

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    Thanks for all the info, seriously appreciate it. :)
     
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  14. F1wanabe

    F1wanabe Administrator

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    My servo is internal as well with a car running rearward. Mounting servos and other components forward makes it easier to achieve cg with a smaller battery so I do it whenever I can.
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. thunderfisst

    thunderfisst Cadet

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    If you look at post #346 you can see how I used the cf rod in the elevator for the hinge also.
     
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  16. thunderfisst

    thunderfisst Cadet

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    I didn't us this on my A-10 but my newest idea is to put the servo in the hinge line and do away with all the linkage all together. Here are pictures. 2015-02-26 04.02.00.jpg 2015-02-26 04.02.57.jpg Mount the servo in the stationary part of the elevator with the control arm screw exactly where the center of the hinge is, center servo arm with servo tester then hold elevator in neutral position and glue the arm.
     
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  17. F1wanabe

    F1wanabe Administrator

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    That'll work, but a couple warnings. That extra weight on the back will require extra weight on the front. Any weight you put at or in front of cg will not require weight on the nose.
    I've found that having a surface mounted to the servo often results in stripping gears. If you must, I'd use metal gears which will add more weight on back.
    Finally, the control horn adds leverage so that the servo will have plenty of throw, but will need to be a higher torque to work.
    I use the dubro micro push rods to route through fuselage to the elevator..
    [​IMG]
     
  18. thunderfisst

    thunderfisst Cadet

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    I used it on a YAK 54 that the plans showed the servos just in front of the elevator that's how I got the idea. Moving the servos back just required the battery to be a little forward to get cg correct. It probably wouldn't work on the A-10 and I agree about the metal gear servos. These were all I had on hand at the time. I must have too much time on my hands. I appreciate your input.
     
  19. thunderfisst

    thunderfisst Cadet

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    What is the pitch and diameter of the 3 blade on yours?
     
  20. F1wanabe

    F1wanabe Administrator

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    I'd like to throw this out there for those of you who are thinking of building our a10 mk2, or who are in the process of doing so. The a10 was one of the most challenging planes to design from a set up standpoint. The plane was designed to have a volkswagen mounted in the nose!
    [​IMG]
    So, the effect of having a good amount of weight hanging off the back in the form of a motor needs to be factored into the build.
    This plane flies so easy when it's set up well. In order to get it set up right, it requires a good amount of planning ahead and that's why we call it an advanced build. Once you get the keel laid, you should already be thinking of maintaining cg! Building cg into the plane is really important here. How do you do that? Mount all components at or around the cg. This means servos, esc and rx. This makes setting the final cg with battery position very easy. Also, building the tail strong but light. Extra hot glue will not work well. Epoxy or yes, foam tac does.
    We've made this plane as large as possible but still be able to work with a standard power system. We did this in order make the foam thickness have less of a visual impact. On the mark 1, the look was there but the extra 12mm of foam thickness side to side made it look a little chubby. Since 3mm depron is not strong enough for twisting strength (torsional rigidity for you geeks out there ) we made the plane a little larger to get the look right. But, this means that, when you build the plane exactly to spec you will be at 27/28 oz. At this weight you can get really good performance. The problem that creeps in is this: plane is built, electronics are in, mods are done and you hit the target weight exactly. BUT, cg is way off so you need to add 2 or 3 oz to the nose. This now puts the plane over 30 oz which requires a larger power system on the tail, more weight on the nose, etc. It's like a dog chasing it's tail! The way to avoid this is to plan ahead and keep cg forward.
    I use the dubro micro push rods on my planes because you can route them through the plane or even on the fuselage.
    [​IMG]
    http://www.headsuphobby.com/Du-Bro-30-Micro2-Pushrod-System-Cat-922-D-339.htm
    They bend slightly, are light and make installing servos forward very easy. I am able to fly with a 2200 3s using this technique. 2650 is ideal, 3000 3s is nice too.
    Another tip: Jay is using the focal price 2700 motor on his. With a 6x3 prop it produces 34 oz thrust. This is a lightweight motor that packs a punch and is a really good fit for the a10.
    We encourage other solutions also, but the main point is, keep cg in check throughout the build and you won't have to add weight to get cg.
     
    TacticalFlight, EricR and Newt like this.
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