3D Printed Parts

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by Sterling101, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. printed these little jack or balancing stands awhile ago, little short for this big bird and had to use some empty reels to compensate but it does make balancing the plane really simple and accurate.
    2018_0604_101608_004.JPG 2018_0604_101435_001.JPG 2018_0604_101500_003.JPG
     
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  2. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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  3. I was finally able to print a swappable camera mount for my FT Seaduck for FPV. This is designed for mounting a runcam swift 2 directly on the hull. Easy to slide it off when I am not doing FPV or if I need to transfer it over to another plane.

    Runcam swift 2 mount.JPG Runcam base plate for mount.JPG IMG_1359.JPG IMG_0753.JPG IMG_4636.JPG IMG_0549.JPG IMG_3708.JPG IMG_7953.JPG IMG_9499.JPG


    I have posted the STLs on Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2977889
     
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  4. That's so simple and effective it hurts, I would have spent hours coming up with something complicated. :D :D
     
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  5. Thanks! Yeah makes it easy not to buy many cameras for all fpv setups but all you need is the wire that goes in the back of camera for each and you are all set.
    I actually forgot to put a flat base plate that can be universally used as well. Will do that when I get back home.
     
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  6. Also printed a jig to mount my FPV monitor directly on to my Futaba. Fortunately, a file for it was available online and its also slide-able! To mount the base plate on my Tx, I could only find screws (for screwing into plastic on Tx) from my broken hp printer and it was the exact length I needed!

    [​IMG]

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  7. Next I printed some gimbal protectors...
    My old ones were printed out of PLA and they kept falling off and also did not look as great:

    [​IMG]

    So now I printed new ones with TPE with 30% infill to still maintain some flexibility. Its much tighter fit now and the design also looks cool!

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  8. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    Very nice touch..

    I did the same Rotor Riot gimbal protectors in white PLA
    [​IMG]
     
  9. FED50H

    FED50H Administrator

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    I.did those in green, but a fellow flyer liked them more than I did, and I never printed another set....yet
     
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  10. FED50H

    FED50H Administrator

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    Fantastic....added that set up to my collection to print...thanks a lot...
     
  11. Ok , help, software issues from one program to another . Designed in Rhino and the file saved as stl format and Cura opens it no problem but look close at the mesh, all the joints even if overlapping they aren't attached. Now that same file in OBJ format if I can import it into Tinkercad (issues there) and then export it as a STL file it works beautiful. The snag is importing into Tinkercad is hit and miss. Because the size of file Tinkercad won't import the stl file and it has to be OBJ. You see the junk that it imports it as , worse then a jigsaw puzzle with 1/3 the pieces missing and in the wrong spot. Tried both ways in MeshMixer, SLCR and still crap.


    2018-08-19.png 2018-08-19 (1).png
     
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  12. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    On Windows 10 there's a program built in called 3D Builder that might be able to process the STL and save it back out in "repaired" fashion.

    Might be worth a go at least...
     
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  13. Just trying Repetier, it has a rebuild option and using the Cura engine :D . will see how it does.
     
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  14. Not sure why exactly that would be happening but I have had that case before. I have had this in two different instances:

    1) When you are drawing and extruding objects, make sure that you have the "Merge results" feature enabled. Last time around when I did not have that enabled, I did see these issues that you see in CURA. Which is why when you import it in a different software (tinkercad), it might be enabled there and probably dont see the problem after.

    2) The thickness of the wall (based on the second picture in ThinkerCad). What I mean by this is, if you have a set thickness (by looking at the slicer it looks like its 1.2mm - 1.5mm thick walls?), sometimes, it can get thinner as you extrude along (see the circled region). So depending on your drawing, it might be so thin that the software may not recognize it being so thin and would simply eliminate it. So a few things you can try to test if this is the case: try increasing the overall thickness of the object and see if that fixes the issue, so you know it has to do with the thickness. Best way to do this would be to simply go back to the drawing and use offset to increase the overall thickness.
    To see if the importing software is doing things right, when importing make sure the parameters for precision (e.g. recognize 0.1mm clearance vs. 0.01mm vs 0.001mm and so on and so forth for snapping the lines) are exactly the same or set with more precision (This feature is at least available in Sketchup).

    Hope this helps.

    2018-08-19 (1).png
     
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  15. Some of it is definitely the wall thickness but even that isn't consistent. The end cones I did even thinner and they came through great. :D The Repetier repair somewhat worked but my circle now became a hexagon. ;)

    I will play with the parameters and see what happens.
     
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  16. Well last night played with the parameters and aspect ratio when exporting the files and got it finally to transfer even into Tinkercad but now even through Tinkercad the mesh or what ever it is called is poor. 1/2 of the intersecting joints are not connected like in the 1st picture in the previous post. Usually if I was able to import the file into Tinkercad and download it from there into an STL file the mesh or algorithm paths would be perfect when loaded into Cura. I have actually re-drawn the engines and changed my surfaces and still crap. As an example the middle straight surface which goes through the circle and another cross wall was a single surface and now is split into 3 pieces. That is how it shows in the layers in Cura, I have learned to not only look at the solid view but also go through the layers before printing , catch a lot of mistakes before you waste a ton of filament.
     
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  17. If you want me to take a jab at extruding the drawing, I can try it on Solidworks. If you dont mind sharing your file, I’ll be happy to give it a try. Have you asked Bimo on what are his thoughts? I feel that a pro like him would fix this problem in a second :D
     
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  18. I pester Bimo enough :D :D

    I will send you a pm
     
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  19. JTiger

    JTiger Airman

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    Soo... Been thinking about buying a3D printer for a while now; I don't want to spend much more than 200USD. Looking at the Creality Ender 3 or Anet a6. Anyone have experience with these? Other recommendations? General advice?
     
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  20. notamedclosed

    notamedclosed Ace Pilot

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    Anet's are firestarters, literally the only 3d printer I've read multiple direct reports of fires. I've heard good things about the Ender 3. Just make sure whatever printer you get has thermal runaway protection. Often cheap printers have it disabled because their shoddy product tends to create more false shutdowns. If the printer doesn't have it enabled you can usually reflash it with updated firmware.
     
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