3D Printed Parts

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by Sterling101, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    Neat... I looked at rhino but decided to stay with tinkercad for now. I'm scheduled for a new laptop anyway so I decided to deal with install and such at that time.

    ... and your opinion ?

    I'm not sure what it is you really have there but it looks just like the model

    I've also tossed out Cura and have moved over to ideamaker as my slicer .... and it's still free. Repetier is still my server/host setup for network transfer.
     
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  2. LOL, it's a scaled down water bottle. I love Tinkercad because it is so easy to use but very limited for actual modelling . This Rhino is super powerful, very taxing on the brain and hair. There are so many commands and tools it's mind blowing, then learn their hotkeys. Bimo is just testing their newest version and he is in heaven right now, me, heck this little bottle took me 5 hours to design, Bimo 1 minute. :D Very slowly it is starting to sink in, atleast the basic stuff that is, but the more I play with it the more I like it.
     
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  3. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    That would have me reaching for some sort of scaffolding and clean underwear.
     
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  4. quorneng

    quorneng Ace Pilot

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    Continuing my idea to use 'printed' parts in an otherwise conventional (for me at least!) build I created these wing ribs.
    LightRib.JPG
    In this case a simple Clark Y section 200 mm (8") chord, 25 mm (1") deep and 3 mm thick. It could of course be any section if you can use the true coordinates. It has a Warren girder infill. To resist buckling of the thin section struts the rib has a printed 'skin' on one side.
    The skin is very thin, 0.1 mm, but it means each rib weighs just 1 g. This is still some 30% heavier then one cut from 3mm Depron sheet but the printed rib is a good bit stronger and stiffer.
    They do take a while to print (11 minutes) but on the plus side they all are exactly the same.:)
    The next step is to use them in an actual test wing.;)
     
  5. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Very much reminds me of the Gypsy Moth wing ribs.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2018
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  6. quorneng

    quorneng Ace Pilot

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    The printed ribs going on to a 2mm Depron lower wing skin. LHwing1.JPG
    Its hard to see but there is a 2 mm hard balsa spar flange glued into the 2 mm Depron skin just below the 3 mm Depron shear web that has been added between each rib.
    When the top balsa spar flange is added the result will be a full depth balsa/Depron/balsa composite spar.
    With this type of construction the Depron skin provides all the torsional resistance and about half the load bearing strength.
    The intention is the completed 52" (1320 mm) 'test' wing will actually be used on the remains of an earlier 'pod and boom' pusher.
     
  7. quorneng

    quorneng Ace Pilot

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    With the top balsa flange and the leading edge skin added (it creates a "D" box) the wing is plenty strong enough to be handled. LHwing3.JPG
    The wing will remain like this until it is joined to the other side and the aileron servos added.
     
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  8. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    ... it's always fun to accessorize too.

    A little bit of string on my first layer but easily fixed on the next one .. I know where that went wrong. Otherwise it turned out pretty good for a test run.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Had to print this animated heart for valentine day special for my wife:

     
  10. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    Fascinating ... and a nice touch for Valentine's day.
     
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  11. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    This was my Valentine's day theme. [​IMG]
     
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  12. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    I wanted to do a good test print of the piper so I ran a wing piece through and oh wow.

    Malukk was onto something good when he suggested using simplify3d. I tried using Cura ... Repetier ... ideamaker and finally decided to let go of the buck 50.

    Pictured is the suggested Cura settings as provided as an import file that I printed in orange. Tonight I resliced it in simplify3d and come back to find this printed in white.

    I also able too squeeze out my retraction speed and distance issues. [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  13. Nice, I think I am somewhere in the middle with my Cura settings. I don't really get anymore stringers but a few hair like strands, they are so thin that a quick swipe with a lighter and they are gone. Tapered curves is where I get a few flaws every odd line.
     
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  14. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    Simplify3d seemed to add that extra touch of finer linearity when trying to narrow in the extruder setup. I can admit it's working for me and for a buck 50 it better !!

    I have a couple weeks of printing to get enough pieces together where I can assemble that piper and honestly.... I'm on no big hurry right now. I'll most likely launch a piece or two between doing other things.
     
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  15. lysle42

    lysle42 Ace Pilot

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    any one here making motor mounts? as I have seen some great ones but not for sale.
     
  16. Now you can say good bye to all the other slicers. S3D is just too good and well worth the buck 50. Your prints look great!
     
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  17. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    I still use repetier host/server simply to upload the print file and monitor the machines progress under load.

    ... and I still like repetier better than octoprint or astroprint.
     
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  18. Here are a few pictures of a new mount for my Horten. both pieces printed at the same time, no stringers especially from one piece to another and very little hair. I have noticed say for tapered cones or rounded noses depending on rotation cw or ccw or how it sliced the file and determined the algorithm one direction prints almost 0 flaws but when it goes the other way is when some show up.

    But your prints Tom look really good.

    2018_0216_093308_001.JPG 2018_0216_093412_002.JPG 2018_0216_093426_003.JPG
     
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  19. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    My only parting suggestion on the wing is my temperatures variables.

    I've determined that this color and brand of pla makes walls the best at 203°c. Allowing enough of each layer to melt into the previous and adhere well.

    It's difficult to see but I was melting more in the areas that I've circled leaving a slight, but noticeable change in surface grain and tension.

    I would have to do this to each piece (not likely to happen ) but I was considering lowering the temp to 200 in these areas and kick it back up to 203 along the wider spans.

    I know it's splitting hairs but hey... it can be done so why not ?

    .. and yes Jeff, I melted a lot of plastic looking for those sweet spots to get it to where it now prints well. Start a detailed print to crash it... make some adjustments and go again, over and over and over again.

    I knew what I wanted and was my motivator.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
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  20. Most of mine now are done at 220 and adhesion to each layer seems good and I find my prints are stronger without the fan on. Other then the white pla I have (same brand) I have to adjust the settings quite a bit.

    Have you played with different nozzle sizes yet?
     
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