3D Printed Parts

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by Sterling101, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    That failed right out of the gate.

    Re-leveled ... warm water bath to get all the glue snot back off ... an alcohol rub down and a fresh layer of hair spray.

    Go again.

    The only real sure thing that always worked was the pei tape that came with the machine.
     
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  2. Tom, thats strange that its not sticking. I use some cctree filament as well and they stick so well that I have to use a blade to kinda get underneath the part. Very difficult to take off. The bed temp. should be set to 55-60C.

    Also, is your printer in a room where its fairly cold? If its the case then the chances are parts will pop off.

    I use a aluminum plate on top of my heated bed and have lightly scuffed it using fine sand paper.

    I have also put foam insulation tape that is used to insulate hot water pipes on the bottom of my heat bed to make sure that heat is not lost as fast and is efficient.[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2018
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  3. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    This time I'm going right to the Ian book of printer tips chapter 5 ... naked glass with a good squirt of hair spray.

    The uber cool cctree bed adhesive pad has proven to be a bad investment.

    Filiment back to defaults. 200°c and 60° on the bed. I WILL make this thing work yet. She's just been testing my patience.
    .... go again.
     
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  4. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    ... and fail.

    Lower to 55°c on the bed. Another layer of hair spray.
     
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  5. Did you pick up any of those thin hobby spatulas, they really help.
     
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  6. Do you clean the table good after each print?
     
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  7. I have still yet to try glue or hairspray, I am still using green painters masking tape.
     
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  8. Is the Z offset maybe a tad to high? just a thought.
     
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  9. Another test would be to try some different filament.
     
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  10. Z-offset is a good point.

    On rep host slic3r setting, I used to have 150-200% extrusion rate for first layer to get nice adhesion...
    Print speed for first layer was also set to 50% so that would be 30mm/sec.
     
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  11. thunder

    thunder Top Gun

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    Having a cold bed is how I get my prints off,keeping the bed hot makes my prints stick,i am no expert but I would not turn the bed off until print is done
     
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  12. thunder

    thunder Top Gun

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    I had same problem and I tried loads of different suggestions but nothing worked great,i have now have mirror tile on top of the bed and bed set at 70 throughout print,i my problem is getting the prints OFF,i just wait till bed goes cold and the prints pops off
     
  13. thunder

    thunder Top Gun

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    Ian u r a tight ass !! lol
     
  14. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    No, they would just bend . I have a thin paint scraper and that can barely get the prints off.
    I am thinking of buying this spray in bulk and exporting it.
    I wonder if the addition of the pro -vitamin B5 helps with adhesion..
     
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  15. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    No. I have several mirrors, three in fact which are cleaned in hot water and Fairy Liquid after each print and then treated with hairspray before each print.
    You don`t read the post`s thoroughly Jeff.
     
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  16. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    I think this is the important thing here.
    The first layers on my prints are extremely thin like the filament is being smeared on under pressure.
    The first several passes look as if the nozzle is touching the bed and nothing is coming out of the nozzle.
    I used to adjust the hot end height and the next print would be too high.
    If the first layer is thick I don`t get good adhesion.

    I have read you must get a thick first layer to get good adhesion but that doesn`t work for me.
    As I have got my printer to work after almost a month of trying, I am not going to try and tune in a thicker first layer and risk another month to get it right again.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
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  17. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    It`s OK for us old farts to play with our big toys and burn fossil fuels at a ridiculous rate and then sit back and say oh, I`ve only got so many years left, I will be OK the fuel won`t run out in my life time.
    But what about future generations?
    The council in my borough has already started turning 50% of the street lights off after 12 o` clock at night, even after spending a fortune on converting them to low consumption LED`s.
    The problem is now and it will get worse if we don`t turn off our print bed heaters if they are not needed.
    This could bring up all sorts of political debates and arguments, so I will leave it there.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
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  18. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Tony,
    Do you use any sort of adhesive/hairspray?
    On the mirror I mean:)
     
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  19. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    On most web sites the experts say you need borosilicate glass to get good adhesion.
    But being a tight arse, I bought two packs of these cheap Chinese mirror tiles from ebay.
    I have put the vernier gauge on them and they are a uniform 2 mm thick.
    I use Cura 3.1.0 and slice on the recommended settings for the Creality CR10,(that`s because I dont know what I am doing)
     

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
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  20. thunder

    thunder Top Gun

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    The are loads of you tube vids of folk doing 80 to 100 hour prints,how many of you folks are willing to start a print and go to bed or work or wherever and leave the printer running,i am not willing to do that and that means that I am limited to a 17 or 18 hour print.I started a print of a coke can holder for a Nintendo remote for my grandson and after 17 hours I had to go to bed and therefore had to stop the print,he uses it but it aint finished lol
     
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