3D Printed Parts

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by Sterling101, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. You kill me. :D :D
     
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  2. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    I don't know these bloody newcomers to the scene coming along and showing us all up with multiple printers going at the same time :D

    Liking the TV mount Jeff - similar design to the one I did last year but I used ball links for the pivot controls.
     
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  3. Well I used bearings in mine but there is a couple changes I would do already but it's good enough for a proto type. ;) Next step will be the mixing in the TX, I know the pitch will effect the roll so that will be a little of hair pulling. :D
     
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  4. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    I should not have bought the second one if Jeff had told me he was using the Prusai3 2 from the get go.
    I spent almost a month trying to get the tronxy to work on the original prusa i3 set up.
    Anyhoo, I will make the mods on the CTC and probably flog it.
     
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  5. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    I just mixed the up/down with my elevator channel and stuck the yaw onto the rudder channel. Could probably up the elevator a bit I think but the yaw is hilarious for flat spins!

    The best one I did was at about 4:25...

     
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  6. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Hey Guys, is it necessary to keep the bed heated throughout the print?
     
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  7. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    I tend to leave it alone. In theory for PLA you don't need to but I've never had a problem leaving it on.
     
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  8. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Well if it`s not needed it`s just a waste of electricity and we don`t want to waste electricity do we?:)
     
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  9. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    I only say in theory you don't need it but I get such good bed adhesion with it I'd rather have it on that not :)
     
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  10. He who has 2 machines running at the same time. ;)
    And it's not my fault you have 2 machines. :D :D
     
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  11. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Well it`s not such a bad thing.
    I have the CTC running up some legs for the tronxy so I can put the control box underneath so it takes less room.
    The GASB v7 rear fuselage is about done.
    In my post on the GASB thread I said I was going to make foam wings as Leigh`s ailerons seemed very small but the version 7 has much longer ones so I may print the wings.
     
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  12. Honestly, it would be nice to try turning the heated bed off for long prints if it works... but then if it doesnt work out, waste of time, filament and more energy
    Interesting test to do though...
     
  13. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    After using the hairspray on the glass I have a heck of a job to remove the print if the glass gets cold.
    To prevent breaking the glass I have to warm it up too about 100 to get it off but that makes the print go soft and distorts.
    If I struggle to get the rear fuselage of the GASB I will sacrifice the glass.
     
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  14. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Well I didn`t break the glass but the back end of the fuselage is toast.
    Got badly distorted when I heated it up. It was not that hot as I was handling it to try and get the fuse off.
    I am going to heat the print bed to 100 and see if I can mold it back to shape, may be a piece of paper on the bed to stop the part sticking again:)
     
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  15. So sounds like it does have some promise...
    Will have to try it out. But i guess it would differ case by case basis depending on how big the piece is, printing time and things of that nature
     
  16. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    I did quite a bit of work with him for the v7 so the elevons are full length, it takes 9g servos not 5g and there's more room in the cockpit area too.
    Not remade one yet but the thing has a lot of promise now I think...
     
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  17. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    That trick worked out OK but the paper has stuck to the bed.
    I don`t know how this hairspray works so well, it`s like CA when it gets hot.
    Before I do any more prints I am going to clean the bed with alcohol.
     
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  18. TomMonton

    TomMonton Administrator

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    I'm back to my original issue of getting things to stick .... argh.

    I'm running with the book of malukk chapter 4. This time smear the bed with school glue about 4 layers deep. I was about 3/4 finished with a 4 hour print and it popped off.

    ... so here it goes again. To include some new settings in Cura I wanted to try anyway.

    Using also kicked the bed temperature up to 70 to see if it will bite a little more.
     
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  19. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    I can`t believe you have so much trouble getting it to stick, it must be the make of filament.
    I spray the glass with the hairspray and set the bed to 60 and it sticks like sh*t to a blanket:)
     
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  20. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    I am concerned with the weight:)
     
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