3D Printed Parts

Discussion in 'Scratchbuilding!' started by Sterling101, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    Been meaning to start this thread up for a while now but I figured it would be a handy place to share knowledge on 3D printing and associated parts that we can all use.
    I tend to print all my motor mounts these days and control horns too.
    In fact the entire nose section on my Vulcan is 3D printed along with a whole host of other things on different planes I've built.

    I'll look into a way of sharing the STL files so they can be accessed easily and hopefully we can build up a decent repository of parts that we can share.
     
  2. homey666

    homey666 Top Gun

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    Oh man! Now I'm gonna get sucked into this vortex! :)

    Peter
     
  3. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    I would be interested in reading how you go about drawing up items for printing and what soft ware is needed and the cost of aquiring said soft ware, ta.
     
  4. quorneng

    quorneng Ace Pilot

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    Bogusbandit56
    The cost of the required CAD and printing programmes does rather depend on what you intend to print.
    It is perfectly possible to use "free to down load" software but it does have limitations however it is still quite complex so until you have fully learned how to use it limitations are more likely to be with the user than the software!
    I printed this lightweight exhaust tube and inner cone for each of the pair of 40 mm EDFs in my Depron DH Sea Vixen using FreeCAD to design and CURA to print. Both programmes are completely free. ExCone1.JPG Of course really complex things, like a complete scale air frame, require considerable expertise and capable CAD to design but you can still generate useful components with free software leaving only the cost of the printer itself and the print filament used.
     
  5. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Thanks Simon, that is helpful. I wouldn`t be considering anything too complicated, more like custom bits and bobs for the depron builds.
    I was wondering why you haven`t posted your Sea Vixen yet:)
     
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  6. quorneng

    quorneng Ace Pilot

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    Bogusbandit56
    Although the Sea Vixen construction worked well enough I managed to build in a difference wing incidence left to right and it will require some serious 'surgery' to correct.
    It does fly. Although the ailerons are powerful enough to combat the difference in lift but rather as expected flying anywhere near the stall is particularly horrible. It is on my ' to do' list.
    The next project is really a development of the Sea Vixen exhaust ducts - print a complete duct.
    An airliner under wing engine nacelle is short enough so that a complete 3D print should not pose too much of a weight penalty.
    Not exact scale but I did manage to create a complete nacelle with a suitable pylon.
    Side.JPG
    It is loosely based on a RR Trent nacelle and encompasses a 50 mm EDF. Obviously it has to be printed in two parts to get the EDF in!
    2PieceEDF.JPG The EDF wires run up a channel inside the pylon.
    Front.JPG
    It weighs 26 g complete. The EDF itself weighs 65 g.
    Really just an experiment at this stage but it has given me some ideas. ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2017
  7. Nice work. :)
     
  8. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    And all I've managed today was a whistle design to see if I can make a noise generator on a park jet :)
     
  9. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Sorry to hear about the wobbly Vixen, it looked alright on the video I watched some time ago on youtube.
    I rather like the Sea Vixen and Bimo designed a simple profile plane which flew very well but unfortunately it crashed due to a dodgy receiver.
    The Trent nacelles look fantastic.:)
    I`m sure we will see a baby A320 soon.
     
  10. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    Well lets hope it isn`t a high pitched one that only dogs can hear:D.
     
  11. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    So far it seems to only work when I blow over it. It's a start at least :D
     
  12. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    If it works like blowing a flute it will be tricky because the note is made by the shape and tension of your lips.:confused:
     
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  13. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    My idea was to make it like an arrow whistle so the hole is on top of a chamber and the airflow should cause the whistle to sound. Sadly I've not had chance to test in the air but on the plus side I've rebuilt the undercarriage on the SU after the 20mph wind landing in august...
     
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  14. bogusbandit56

    bogusbandit56 Top Gun

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    That`s good, all I have done is bark at the fireworks all night.
     
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  15. @thunder

    The insulation I think also doesn't allow the heat to reach the plate underneath to heat up and warp, I thought of doing it but not yet. Your test piece doesn't look to bad but definitely needs some fine tuning. Try those little test pieces, the cylinder and 1cm cube, that's the second video. I have 50 or more of these cubes but when the printer is finally set my cube is exactly 1 cm square and the walls are 1mm thick plus the walls don't have any flaws in them. Also I found setting the printer to do the outside walls first will give you truer edges.
     
  16. thunder

    thunder Top Gun

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    Hi chaps,,ok here is update on my novice printer progress,i have had success with printing certain things,,see photos,but everything i try that is tall pulls off the bed,i have several methods to make em stick but no joys,i have just received 2 bottles of spray on printfix,see photo and am gona try that.I know how important setting the filament size in the cura is but i cant anywhere in the software to do it and i have been searching through the cura software website for one that offers this setting,the manual shows where the setting is in cura 14.12 so i downloaded that version and the filament setting is not there ? wildthing already stated what cura he is using but i cant find his post. thanks people.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. Sterling101

    Sterling101 Top Gun

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    I used to have that problem a lot too. That's why I got hold of a buildtak sheet - it literally now sticks like the proverbial to a blanket!
    I also found that a combination of the levelling (head too high up for the first layer) and the bed surface made a big difference.
    I now level every few prints by setting the centre height up using a piece of paper like a feeler gauge so it just grabs it under the head then do all 4 corners in the same way.
    If it's a tall thin piece then a "brim" can help to hold it down. On my Vulcan nose it was a plain print with no brim, it just sticks with the settings I've got in place.
    Also tried a "3DBenchy" print the other night - not bad but I'm still tweaking things after installing this new print head setup...

    IMG_20171107_213746.jpg
     
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  18. My version is Cura 2.3.1 .

    Your prints look pretty good. Now try printing multiple pieces at the same time , see if it leaves a mess in-between the pieces.
    The other thing you can or (should be able to in your print settings) is add a brim or adhesion plate to the piece, / print , you also should be able to specify how wide the plate is to be. This helps especially with printing skinny or small round parts, gives it a larger foot print. It is something extra to trim off in the end though.
     
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  19. thunder

    thunder Top Gun

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    Thanks sterling and i will check that buildtak sheet out,can it be cut to size ?
     
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  20. How often are you changing those sheets?
     
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